prevent excessive heat buildup. It will also reduce the strain on the automatic transmission thanks to the mechanical advantage of the 2.72:1 Low range planetary in the T-case.
Give the lower tire pressure and Low range a try. Worst thing is it won't work as well for you and you just go back to how you've been driving it.
Am I wasting my time or do you think I can repair my T90 and make it last? It's in a flattie that is now running a healthy 5.0L alloy Rover V-8 making 250-300-ish horsepower. I'm running 36-inch IROKs, a Ford 9-inch rear, Dana 44 front with 5.38 gears, and the factory Spicer 18 T-case. A bigger gearbox will mean more weight, which is what I'm trying to avoid. I thrash the Jeep more often than not, and as you know, breaking down on the trail sucks balls. So any advice would be awesome.
If you were running that engine with smaller 31-32-inch tires or running the larger 36s with less engine, I'd say rebuild the tranny and be careful. But with 36s and a healthy V-8,1 just don't see it lasting unless all you're doing is driving it down the road going easy on the throttle. And you've already admitted that's not your driving style.
The Rover V-8 is based off the older Olds/Buick215 aluminum block and should accept a Buick bellhousing. They're not super-common, but you could use the GM Buick bellhousing to mote an SM420 behind your Rover engine. Then you could buy a Novak SM420 to Spicer 18 adapter. I think the Spicer will survive just fine
78 Jp behind the Rover V-8 (they're not super-torquey) as long as it's rebuilt or in good shape. It's once the Gearings and/or intermediate shaft start wearing that the Spicer 18 suffers tooth damage. If the gears cock at all they'll chip or break. Worn bearings allow 'em to cock. Or, old or inferior intermediate shafts will allow accelerated wear because all the power output is sent through the intermediate gear instead of straight through as on a Dana 20 or Dana 3 GO. Novak makes one of the best rebuild kits for a Spicer 18 out there (novak-adapl. com), and the company has by far the best intermediate shaft.
Hey, all-knowing Jeep dude, I just inherited a '70 J3000 1-ton truck with the 350 Dauntless engine, Dana 60s, and so on. It has a beautiful Pioneertown, never-garaged patina paint job, but mechanically it is top notch. My brother-in-law was an auto mechanic and took care of it. Any guesses as to the value or rarity of such a money pit? This is my second Jeep, so as you can see, my addiction is getting worse, not better. If this truck is as hip as some have said, I will bring it to a local event this year. Any help with value oradvice about weak links and so on would be great. Also,in Jp's Hot Dog project, the '73 truck from a few years back was running an after market front bumper. Who madethat?
It's hard to assess a value without a photo. I bought a '68 J2000 for $800 and it had very little rust or rot and was in pretty good mechanical condition.
My ballpark guess: maybe $1,000 minimum?Maybe a bit more without rust or rot. Even more if it has the 'Camper Special" package with the T-18 four-speed in place of the more-common TH400 three-speed auto. More if it's got A/C, and so on. Price pretty much goes up from there. The Buick 350 is a good engine and is sought afier in some J-truck circles. The downside is the axles. I'd also check the axles a bit more closely. Chances are that the front is a closed-knuckle, drum brake Dana 44. Depending on the GVW, the roar could be a Spicer 53 or Dana 60. Only the dual-rear-wheel models got the Dana 70 rear.
The Hot Dog '73J2000 project Jeep ran a BJ's Off Road bumper (bjsoffroad.com).
I read about the ECTED that you put in your FSJ project and was wondering how it is performing for you. I am thinking about putting one in my CJ. Would you still recommend this locker?
Levi McLsaac Via email
John Cappa replies:
Yep, I do. If you are looking for a selectable locker, I think it's a really good option. In my opinion, pretiy much every selectable locker has some sort of disadvantage. The ARBs require a pump, the whole system is expensive, and it can leak air, but the mechanicals are nearly bombproof. The OX has a heavy cable and bulky mechanical shifter that needs to be routed and mounted, but it too is really strong. The ECTED has wearable parts that cannot be replaced at home and I think it's likely on par with the OX in terms of strength.
If you want a selectable locker, you have to simply take the good with the bad. I really love the limited-slip feature of the ECTED and the ability to lock it on demand. There is no waiting, no flashing lights, or anything. It locks and unlocks quickly with the flip of a switch. The limited-siip is the most aggressive that I have ever used. It works really well and in some cases I didn't even need the locker. However, recently I broke several teeth off of the ring gear of my Dana 44 and the bits got wedged inside the ECTED, causing it to not unlock anymore. It's really no fault of the locker that the ring gear failed before the locker did, so I'd call it a success story. Li
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